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Explore Melbourne’s underground past with this 2-hour walking tour of Little Lon, uncovering gangsters, brothels, opium dens, and more for just $35.
If you’re curious about Melbourne’s less polished, more colorful side, this two-hour walking tour offers a fascinating glimpse into the city’s underbelly from the 1850s to the 1940s. Led by historian Michael Shelford, the tour takes you through the historic streets of Little Lon, once Melbourne’s notorious slum district, famous for its brothels, gangsters, and illicit activities. With a modest price of $35, it’s a surprisingly rich experience for those wanting to understand the city’s complex past beyond the usual tourist sights.
What makes this tour stand out? First, the knowledgeable guide brings storytelling to life with vivid details about famous figures like Squizzy Taylor and the women who ran the streets. Second, the authenticity of the locations—most buildings still stand or are well-researched reconstructions—makes history feel tangible. The only caveat? If you’re expecting a very fast-paced or very long tour, at just 2 hours it’s a quick snapshot, so history buffs looking for depth might want to supplement this with a visit to a local museum later.
This tour is perfect for history lovers, curious travelers, or locals who want a fresh perspective on Melbourne’s more rebellious past. It’s also suitable for those who appreciate a well-researched, storytelling approach and don’t mind walking through narrow alleys and old laneways in the city center. If ghosts, crime stories, and vintage clandestine activities pique your interest, this tour is likely to entertain and inform.


This tour is a carefully curated walk through the streets and alleys of Little Lon, Melbourne’s lively and often shadowy past. From the moment you meet at 282 Exhibition Street, right outside the Coopers Inn Hotel, your journey into the city’s darker days begins. The group, typically small and intimate, is led by Michael Shelford, whose background as a writer and historian shines through his storytelling.
The first thing you’ll notice is the atmosphere of historical authenticity. You’ll stop outside buildings that served as houses of ill-fame a century ago—some still standing, others reconstructed based on meticulous research. The stories told here are not just about crime, but about the women who ran these establishments, often fighting against gangsters and police. As one reviewer put it, “Michael showed his impeccable knowledge and kept us entertained with the shenanigans of the time.”
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As you wander through Melbourne’s back lanes, you’ll see the remains of old speakeasies and illicit shops—places where sly grog (moonshine) was sold, or opium dens buzzed with activity. You might even peer into the locations of all-night cocaine cafes and imagine the characters that once flocked there. These stories help paint a vivid picture of urban life in those tumultuous decades.
The tour also includes a visit to the last remaining single-storey cottage in Melbourne’s back lanes. This modest building offers a glimpse into the kind of humble homes that coexisted with the more infamous establishments nearby. Its preservation underscores how much of Melbourne’s past can still be experienced amid modern development.
One of the highlights is stopping outside the former home of Squizzy Taylor, arguably Australia’s most infamous gangster. You’ll hear about his criminal exploits, rivalries, and violent endings, making his story come alive far more vividly than reading about it in a book. Multiple reviews mention the guide’s storytelling ability: “Michael’s storytelling made the characters and stories so engaging,” says a visitor.
But the tour isn’t just about gangsters—it also celebrates the women who managed to carve out spaces for themselves in a male-dominated underworld. From madams to the leaders of The Combine, an all-female crime syndicate, you’ll gain insights into female resilience and entrepreneurship in a rough era.
The $35 price tag is remarkably good value for a tour packed with visual, historical, and storytelling elements. Included in the price is a free booklet with photos of the characters and sites, allowing you to follow along and revisit the stories later.
Throughout the tour, the reviews are glowing. Many mention how well-researched Michael’s stories are, describing him as enthusiastic, articulate, and capable of turning history into a captivating narrative. Commenters also appreciate that the walking is manageable and the stops are well spaced, making the two hours feel comfortable.
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What sets this tour apart is the blend of factual history and storytelling flair. One reviewer summarized, “Michael knew his stuff and knew how to tell a good story,” which is exactly what keeps visitors engaged. Hearing about shootings, bombings, and brawls makes the city’s past feel immediate and real, not just dusty old facts.
Many guests mention how the stories of fascinating characters—like madams, gangsters, and law enforcers—are delivered with humor and clarity. This isn’t a dry lecture but an entertaining narrative that invites curiosity. That mix of education and entertainment is what makes the experience so memorable.

If your goal is to understand Melbourne beyond the surface, this tour is a great addition. It complements visits to major landmarks by giving context about the city’s shadowy history. It’s especially suitable if you have a fondness for true crime, vintage cities, or local stories.
Since it’s only two hours, it fits easily into a busy schedule, and the modest price makes it accessible to most travelers. Plus, the small group size means you can ask questions and get a personalized experience, which many reviews highlight as a key benefit.

This tour is best for history buffs, curious explorers, or local Melburnians wanting a fresh perspective on their city. If you enjoy storytelling that brings historical characters to life and want to see Melbourne’s streets from a different angle, you’ll find this tour both fun and illuminating.
It offers good value—a well-researched, engaging narrative in a compact format. It’s also a fantastic way to see parts of Melbourne that most travelers overlook, all while learning about the city’s darker and quirkier side.
For anyone interested in stories of crime, resilience, and the city’s underground culture, this tour hits the mark. It’s an authentic, immersive experience that turns the past into stories you’ll remember.
“Unexpectedly awesome. Michael showed his impeccable knowledge on the subject and kept us entertained with the shenanigans of the time. Even better …”

Is there a dress code or specific attire needed?
Comfortable walking shoes are recommended since you’ll be exploring alleys and streets. Weather protection like sunscreen or rain gear may be needed depending on conditions.
How long is the tour?
It lasts approximately 2 hours, providing a compact but rich taste of Melbourne’s criminal past.
Where does the tour start?
Meeting point is at 282 Exhibition Street, right outside the Coopers Inn Hotel. Arriving a little early ensures you won’t miss the start.
Is the tour accessible for wheelchair users?
Yes, the tour is wheelchair accessible, making it suitable for a broader range of visitors.
What’s included in the price?
You get the guided tour, plus a free booklet with photos of the characters and sites featured.
Can I cancel if I change my mind?
Yes, you can cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund, offering flexibility in your plans.
Is the tour suitable for children or families?
While not explicitly stated, the content is historical and engaging. It’s likely suitable for older children or teenagers interested in history and crime stories.
Will I see actual buildings still standing?
Most of the buildings discussed are still in place or have been reconstructed based on research, giving you a tangible sense of the past.
Is it suitable for locals or only travelers?
Both find value; locals can discover stories they may not know, while travelers get a vivid snapshot of Melbourne’s less obvious history.
What’s the main focus of the tour?
It highlights Melbourne’s red-light district, gangsters, women entrepreneurs, and illicit activities from the 1850s to the 1940s, told through engaging stories and site visits.
To sum it up, the Melbourne Gangsters, Brothels and Lolly Shops Tour offers a lively, insightful, and surprisingly affordable way to experience a different side of Melbourne. It’s perfect for those wanting a short, engaging history walk with stories that stick with you. With a knowledgeable guide, authentic locations, and a focus on the city’s colorful past, it’s highly recommended for anyone looking to uncover Melbourne’s less polished but fascinating stories.
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